Crews Letter #2003 11   A Different Way of Cruising

Good Morning Ladies and Gentlemen:

 

Most outstanding boat name so far: Protect Me From The Things I Want.

 

 

Aren’t mobile phones wonderful?  Eavesdropping can be fun, too.

 

One side of a phone conversation overheard in an open air bar at the Bodrum Marina:

“Yes, you are in the right place.”

“Stop walking.”

“No.  Stop walking.”

“Stop walking.”

“No you haven’t.  Stop!”

“OK.  Now, look left.  No, the other left.  No, don’t walk.  Look left.  I am waving.”

Four blonds waved back.  They were still walking past the bar.

 

Hard to believe they need a drink to relax their minds.

 

 

Keçi Buku, Orhaniye at the East end of the Datça Promontory (Dorian Peninsula) – During the last week or so we have been sailing with the crew of the Scottish Yacht, Different Drum.  Her name is in reference the poem “On Walden Pond” by Henry Thorough.  They are clever enough to go back to Scotland to enjoy the summer there and miss the heat of the Med.  They are just now getting started again for the fall and winter seasons.  We met them in Gouvia in Corfu fall 2001 and spring 2002.  We joined them last week in Bodrum where they had left their boat for the summer.

For lack of a better idea and for the pleasant experience of their company, we have chosen to sail with them for a few weeks. In return, they are teaching us a calmer, less hurried way to cruise.  We have been in this same bay now for four nights and plan to stay a couple of more.  We came here directly from Knidos to fill the water tank, check out the water system and the bilge pump.  For that we checked into Marti Marina.  Once every thing was in order, we moved over to the South side of the bay and anchored along side Different Drum.  After three days at anchor we motored over to a restaurant dock.  There we took a laid line forward and moored stern-to.  At this dock there is water, electricity, a swimming pool, laundry and market.  The only obligation is we are expected to patronize the restaurant.

Quiet days, few chores and pleasant evenings with either dinner on one of the two yachts or ashore makes for a change.

Different Drum and her crew will winter again this year at the Kemer Marina.  This marina has built a clientele of over the winter liveaboard sailors by providing an active social program. 

An American couple explained that they went to their home in Florida for Christmas planning to return in April.  Three days after New Years, by mutual agreement, they flew back to Kemer because Florida was dead.

Activities include bus trips to the movies, symphony, ballet, opera, and Istanbul Boat Show. Classes are organized in navigation, Turkish, French, German, English, computer and cruising.

 To keep the blood moving there is aerobics, diving, dance and tennis.  Among the events that are celebrated: Halloween, Guy Fawlkes Day, Thanksgiving, Santa Lucia Day, Christmas, New Years, Burns Day, Valentines, Easter and many other national holidays of the liveaboards’ homelands. In past years there has been Hawaiian night, pirate's night, French food night, Spanish omelet night, Finland's Independence Day, Birthdays, anniversaries and weddings.

The only complaint we have heard about this marina is there is no time to work on your boat.

 

A visit to their web site is worth its salt in surf: www.kemermarina.com

 

Maybe some year we will stay the winter at Kemer and avoid the long flight to Texas.  Maybe not.

 

 

The red rock landscape, mostly covered in pine, is quite unusual.  At the head of Bençik Limani, not far from here, the Dorian peninsula is at its narrowest, with Buyuk Cati on the other side in Gokova Korfezi.  Herodotus tells us that when the Knidians were threatened by the Persians they set to work to dig a canal across here as a defensive measure.  The red rock was evidently hard going, and on consulting the oracle at Delphi they heard what they wanted to hear: that if the peninsula had been meant to be an island then Zeus would have made it so.  Work was abandoned, and when the Persians invaded, the Kinidians were forced to surrender.  Herodotus doesn’t tell us what the Knidians had to say about the oracle after that.

-          Turkish Waters & Cyprus Pilot, Rod Heikell

5th century BC

 

 

Kiz Kuma Plage

Here in Keçi Buku there is a sand bar that reaches about ¾ths across the bay.   Keçi Buku sounds like kechie boo koo.  This sand bar is 3 to 4 metres (10 to 13 feet) wide, 350 metres (1135 feet) long and ankle deep.  The water on either side is 8 to 10 metres (26 to 33 feet) deep.

The legend goes that in ancient times Kiz Kuma, a girl of common birth, and the prince fell deeply in love.  She was not allowed near the prince.  One night in despair she started on the North shore to cross the bay by emptying sand from her pocket to build a path.  But alas, the going was slow, dawn came and the soldiers spotted her before she reached the other side.  They were charged with protecting the Prince. They killed her with arrows.  The prince died of a broken heart.  The path does not reach the South shore.

Geologists have no better explanation for how or why it is here.

A very special case of “deep pocket.”  “Sometimes the people who would protect us, kill us.”

 

 

Help wanted:  Can you help Fred with a Calculus problem?  If yes, please email your willingness and he will send you a description of the problem.  It is simple enough that any first year student could do it.  A background in structural analysis will help.

 

 

Someone finally asked.  What is a tight luff?  First, what is a luff?  In fore and aft sailing rigs, the leading edge of each sail is attached to either a mast or stay.  The mast or stay is along the fore and aft center line of the boat.  The leading edge is the luff.  The other option is a square rig where the sails are attached at the top to horizontal booms centered on the masts.  These booms extend across the center line of the boat.  The disadvantage of a square rig is that it can only sail with the wind. 

The distinct advantage of a fore and aft rig is that it can propel the boat to windward.  That is to say, if the wind is from the north, the boat can sail from south to north.  Not directly, it is first to the northeast and then the northwest or vice versa.  But upwind progress can be made.  Sailing to windward is called beating.  Fore and aft rigs can also sail to the other directions where the wind is abaft the beam.

The principle that allows sailing to windward is that the luff is curved and when it cuts through the wind a low pressure area is created on the back, off wind, side of the sail.  This low pressure area pulls the boat along.  To sail upwind, the curve of the luff works best when it is tight.

 

Metaphorically, we must all “beat to windward” much of the time.  “To go with the flow” is the antithesis of moral and constructive behavior.  A tight luff is needed to avoid being blown down wind by the world we live in.

 

In cruising parlance it is often said, “Gentlemen do not beat to windward.”  Nice thought if you are willing to allow outside forces determine your destiny.

 

Keep a Tight Luff,

Phyl & Fred

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