Crews Letter #2003 06 Season Cruise Started - Finally

Good Morning Ladies and Gentlemen:

ΛΕΒΙΘΑ – Yes, we are in Greece. And yes, the summer is much more agreeable here. For example, the high yesterday in the shade was 80°F. The low, 74°F. The island where we are moored is about half way between Kos and Paros, pretty much in the middle of the Aegean. If you don’t remember your Greek, the English spelling is “Levitha”. There is no town, only a Farm / Taverna that offers some lodging. The sail yesterday was a lively one. Perception was on a fine reach, heading 265° with two reefs in the main and half the genny rolled up. We saw NW winds mostly between 22 and 28 knots with gusts to 30. It was a single tack from Emporeios, Kalymnos.

Due to Fred’s lack of prowess in flying ladders, we are operating on a much delayed schedule. After the initial surgery and five weeks to let the bone reconnect with its fractured parts, there was a second surgery to remove the pin. This thing was originally identified as a screw. On closer examination, it had neither threads nor head. Another week to let the wound heal and then physio therapy. Physical Therapists are cut from the same mold the world around. She was young, small and sweet. By all appearances, this should have been easy. WRONG. This little woman would apply heat therapy for twenty minutes to soften him up. Say quietly, “Relax Fred, please, relax.” Then she would bend his elbow in ways that only the designer had in mind. Ten days of therapy, a daily hour of pain and anguish, and a complete release by the medical practitioners of Turkey. Now, we are nearly ready to go cruising.

We took some shakedown runs: two one day cruises and then a four day trip. Left arm, both legs and feet did not work as well as remembered. But we can cope.

One of the one day cruises was with the Physical Therapist, her husband and daughter and two friends from London. We had a good sail around Marmaris Limani and a swim at anchor off Magic Life Resort. She really is a lovely person. “Relax, Fred. Please, relax.” And, it needed to be done.

On 18 July, we cleared out of Turkey and entered Greece at Mandraki Harbor, Rodos. The good news is Symi I is no longer operating. The bad news is this little harbor is overcrowded and a mess. We snagged a heavy chain with our anchor. Getting loose required a diver. Checking in requires about 2 miles of walking: the Immigration and Customs are on the commercial quay and the Port Police are at the other end of town. Greek officialdom must have had charm school classes this last winter! Everyone we have dealt with has been more pleasant than the best we dealt with last year. Maybe they are taking the Olympics in 2004 seriously.

On 20 July, Jim and Tom from Scotland came on board for a two week cruise. We left that morning for Bozekale, in that other country. A mid-sail flag change modified appearances. There are no authorities at Bozekale. Anyway you slice it, we were illegal aliens. The next day we were back in Greece, correct papers, correct flag, no longer illegal, and had two weeks of good sailing calling on Symi, Kos, Pserimos, Kalymnos, Lerros, Levitha, Astipalia, Kos, Telos, Khalki and Rodos. After we reached Kos, Phyl started wondering out loud, “Are they having an unusually cool summer in Turkey this year?” The Aegean Sea cools the air that flows over it. Reports are, Turkey is as hot as last year.

After Jim and Tom left, we were able to connect up with Traumerei. Her crew is Kathy and Frank from Tucson. They are on their way from Marmaris to the Ionian Sea. They have an appointment in the Ionian on 18 September. We will tag along to the western edge of the Cyclades. That will be a decision point. Possibly we could follow them up into the Ionian and winter in Gouvia Marina. Maybe we will go back to Yat Marine at Marmaris. Possibly they will follow us back to Marmaris. Decisions, decisions, decisions: so many ports, so little time.

Current Best Guess for the 2003 Season

Perception’s #1 Rule: Never sail by schedule. Sail by weather/whether.

18 July – 15 October Cruise the Dodecanese and Cyclades.

15 October Decide where to winter and start that way.

(18 October, Greek Visa expires)

1-15 November Decommission Perception and set her up for the winter.

There is a routine setting in here.

2004 – yet to be decided

The war, the economy and probably Fred’s bad jokes have resulted in only two guests for the season. If you haven’t planned your vacation, now is a good time for an Eastern Mediterranean cruise.

Keep a Tight Luff,

Phyl & Fred

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