#2002 18 Topkapi Palace and Home Again

 

Good Morning Ladies and Gentlemen:

Thursday

 

Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts

On the south side of the Hippodrome is a fine museum.  Museums fall into three categories: 

A warehouse of everything the curator could find. 

A sufficient, but not excessive, collection of articles that describe one or more subjects well. 

An eclectic collection of stuff that takes up space. 

This museum deals effectively with Islamic art, Turkish art and the nomadic people of Turkey.  It is neither excessive nor eclectic.

The presentation of the arts, crafts and lifestyle of the nomads here was very reminiscent of the plight of the American Indians.

There is a major conflict between those people who believe that the earth is their mother and those who believe that they own the earth. .  One group thinks that mother earth owns them and cares for them.  The other thinks that they own the earth and take care it.  This is a major conflict and the earth is losing.

 

Topkapi Palace

At the north end of the Hippodrome is Topkapi.  What a great name!  For the romantic, it is shrouded in wealth, mystery and intrigue.  36 Sultans ruled from this palace.  It was built in the 15th century.  The name means, “Gun Gate” and comes from the perspective of those on the outside looking in.   From the outside, it is another stone fortress.  We can assume there were guns at the gate.  Inside, it is the epitome of an eastern palace:  large, intricate, beautiful, ornate and very large.  There are gardens, pools, buildings, crown jewels, religious relics, Sultan’s portraits and a garrison for the military.  In its day, it was more: meeting place for the cabinet of ministers, university, mint, archives, administrative offices, library, the heart and brain of the Ottoman Empire, 1453 to 1853.

 

The Kitchens

There are two impressive buildings for the indoor preparation of lots of food over open fires. The roof is made up of several domes.  Each has a smokestack in its center.  Not an easy task in the best of circumstances.   These buildings now house a collection of porcelain and utensils.

 

The Courts

These chambers were designed for the business of running the Empire.  The pre electronic bugging devices are noteworthy.

 

The Harem

This part of the Palace was for the Sultan and his family: his mother, wives, children, concubines and the eunuchs.  The partitioning is well defined and the emphasis is on who doesn't go in.

 

If the description of circumcision for 5 to 9 year old boys on Tuesday had been a bit graphic, “How to be a Eunuch” was more than a bit.  Not being a Sultan and understanding what it takes to be a eunuch, I am glad that they have relaxed the rules.  We enter the Harem. 

The Sultan's mother was the dominant figure.  She ran the place.  After her, the pecking order was not so clearly defined.  Separate apartments designated for each wife, each favorite, and the crown prince.  There are chambers and apartments for the concubines and the eunuchs. One can imagine the politics and power struggles that took place in this part of the palace as well as the other.

 

Holy Relics

We are learning that Eastern religions use relics to bridge the gap between past and present, holy events and today’s believer, God and me.  At the Palace Treasury, we saw part of the skull and the right arm of John the Baptist displayed along with the crown jewels of the empire.  Holy Relics of Islam are displayed: personal items, clothing, hair and nail clippings of the prophet Mohammed. 

 

Cistern

The Palace is built above a Roman cistern.  Infrastructure and good planning pay.

 

Naval Museum

Back to the Bosporus.  Admission today is free.  Tomorrow is a national military day.

 

Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar of Istanbul has 22 entrances, 64 streets, over 3,500 shops, 25,000 workers and its covered just like the Galleria, well almost like The Galleria. There is almost no parking space. 650 years ago when they built the Grand Bazaar, parking was not a problem.

 

Friday

As they say in the travel biz, “We bid farewell to Istanbul.”   Actually, we have to get an early start to avoid gridlock on the Bosporus Bridge.  Not far east, there is a ferry that crosses the Sea of Marmara and it is about a two hour drive to Bursa.  Among other things, Bursa is a ski town. 

 

Saturday

 

This is the longest drive day of the trip, about 500 km or 300 miles.  There are no ferries to negotiate and no sights to see, just the excitement of two and three lane mountain roads.  How quick we forgot with the advent of Interstate Highways.  “I like Ike.” 

 

The Turkish American Fast Food Franchise Triple Crown

There are not many American fast food franchises in Turkey.  They are particularly rare in the small cities and ports where Perception stops.  On the highway between Izmer and Marmaris - it is a new, four lane, divided, toll road, part of the way - there is a Burger King.  The timing is right.  We stop there for a Whopper and Fries.  Wash it down with a Coke.   McDonalds, KFC and Burger King, we have completed the Triple Crown in less than a week.

 

Home Again, Jiggity Jog

Back aboard Perception everything is in order.  The high power circuit breaker box has been repaired, but that’s the next Crews Letter.   It is good to be home.  There are only two days left to get ready for our next guest.

 

Keep a Tight Luff,
Fred

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