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#2002 16 On to Istanbul

 

Good Morning Ladies and Gentlemen:

 

Phyl wanted to go to Constantinople. 

 

Coşkuner navigated right into the center of the old city and then found our hotel.  Turkish men, at least this one, experienced, professional driver, are not afflicted with AMOS.  AMOS - American Male Ostrich Syndrome.  He stopped often and asked for directions.  It was necessary.  The hotel was buried on a short street at the end of three other short streets.  Each of these streets dead ended at one or both of the places that we needed to turn. You had to have been there several times before to find it.  Coşkuner found it.

 

The location of this hotel was excellent.  It was less than a 5 minute walk to the Hippodrome.  The area was reasonably quiet. The staff were Turkish.  That is to say their hospitality was superb.

 

Monday

We met our tour guide, Erol Alton, at the hotel.  He outlined our agenda for the next four days.  And off we went.

 

Hippodrome

Now, we know why Phyl wanted to come here.  The center of Constantinople is a horse track.  Not the ¾ mile relay race track west of Van Alstyne, this was a “Ben Hur” size, chariot racing track.  It seated 120,000 fans.  That’s more than the Rose Bowl on New Years Day. 

There are two obelisks that remain from the time of the races.  One is from Egypt.  The base it sits on depicts in carved stone relief the emperor, his family, court and the chariot racers.  The other was decorated with brass and gold cast figures.  During the Crusades, the Christian side removed these and took them home as souvenirs.  It looks pretty moth eaten, unlikely to survive the next earthquake.   Been that way for several centuries and many earthquakes.  Throughout our tour in Istanbul, we were bombarded by men and boys selling postcards and guide books.  Too bad the Crusaders didn’t buy the pictures and leave the real thing alone. 

 

One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World was the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus.  These same Crusaders dismantled it and used the stones to build a fortress.  So much for respect for the dead and antiquities.  But that’s in Bodrum and we are in Istanbul.

 

Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Blue Mosque)

On the Bosporus side of this end of the Hippodrome stands a grand mosque.

Mosques serve six functions:

Place for prayers and religious study.  There is a large hall and space to kneel.  There is a fountain for ablutions before prayer.  This physical cleansing of hands, feet and face before entering for prayer is both symbolic and functional.

Kitchen to feed the needy.

Clinic to provide medical care for the needy.

Bath.  In times prior to hot and cold running water in every house, the traditional Turkish bath was invented.  It may have been borrowed from the Romans.  We saw such a bath in ruin in Efes from Roman times.  Either way, it is an elaborate ritual involving steam, cool, warm and hot water to open your pores and cleanse your outsides.  It is no small trick to provide such functionality before the hardware store sold hot water heaters and an array of plumbing supplies.

Administrative services to record births, deaths, marriages, divorces and titles of ownership.

A Bazaar to pay for it.  That’s right.  Each mosque has a shopping mall.  They rent the space and the revenue supports the functions of the mosque.

 

The Grand Bazaar of Istanbul has 22 entrances, 64 streets, over 3,500 shops, 25,000 workers and its covered just like Galleria, well almost like Galleria.  There is almost no parking space.  Six hundred 50 years ago when they built the Grand Bazaar, parking was not a problem.

 

The Blue Mosque has it all: tremendous size, awe inspiring  grandeur, delicate richness, commanding location.  The mosque that we visited in the village of Turgut was small, simple, meager and the center of the community.  The Blue Mosque has six minarets; the village mosque, only one. 

They both had the presence of God.  You would have to be spiritually dead not to sense it.

 

There’s a story about St. John the Divine Cathedral.  During the Sunday morning service a man jumps up and shouts, “That’s right, Jesus!”  Everything stops.  He sits down and the service continues.

Pretty soon the same man jumps up and shouts, “Right on, God!” Everything stops.  The priest looks over the rims of his reading glasses at the head usher.  The usher stiffly marches down the aisle and stands at the end of the pew where the noise maker is standing.  The man sits down and the service continues.

Pretty soon the same man jumps up and shouts, “Hallelujah!  Praise God!”  The usher says’ “Sir, you must sit down and be quiet.”

“But, I got religion.”

“Sir, in the Episcopal church, we don’t ‘get religion’”.

 

I suspect the Sultan Ahmed Mosque and St. John the Divine Cathedral have a lot in common.

 

Hagia Sophia (Holy Wisdom) Museum

Beside the other end of the Hippodrome, also on the Bosporus side, is another massive building.  It was built as a Basilica when Constantinople was the capital of the Holy Roman Empire.  Actually it was built, burned and rebuilt, burned and rebuilt.  It was converted to a Mosque when Istanbul was the capital of the Ottoman Empire.  Today, it is a museum attempting to bridge its past and emphasize what was and is good in both.

This museum has it all: tremendous size, awe inspiring grandeur, delicate richness, commanding location.

Unlike a museum which is a building that provides a space for displaying artifacts, this museum is the artifact.  The importance of its contents requires some explaining. Being just 1500 years old and in continuous use most of that time, there are many layers. 

The challenge of bridging the gap between East and West, Islam and Christian, is probably greater than its previous task of bridging the gap between God and man.  With God’s help, all things are possible.  What better name could you pick for such a task, Holy Wisdom.

 

Yerebatan (Basilica ) Cistern

The Romans recognized a flaw in the location of the city.  Yes, it controls probably the most important sea route of their world.  The problem is sea water is salty.  The fresh water supply was at best limited.  The solution was to build some cisterns and an aqueduct.  Just 19 kilometers (12 miles) away there was a good supply of fresh water.  Never mind that it was not downhill all the way.  Just build a bridge, 1 kilometer (1/2 mile+) long, a two tier structure, for the water.  Fortunately, the arches of this structure are big enough to allow the passage of a modern tourist bus.  As for where to store it, they had to fill in some low places in order to have a flat track for the chariot racing.  You aren’t going to have chariot horses running up and down hills.  The cistern that we visited is 140 meters long by 70 meters wide and 10 meters high.  That’s longer and wider than a NFL football field with endzones.  It has 336 marble columns supporting the roof.  City buildings, today, use that roof as their foundation.

The Sultan’s Palace, Topkapi, just happens to sit on top of another such cistern.  Isn’t it interesting how good infrastructure is hard to imagine and easy to use.

 

Just try to float the bond issue to turn the Trinity River bottom flood plain of Dallas into something useful.  The “nay sayers” are every where.

 

The Golden Horn

A drive up the Golden Horn reminded us of Paris: beautiful parks, buildings old and new, people everywhere and traffic.  The drivers of Istanbul must qualify by losing their French Permis de Conduire (drivers license).  Three wrecks and/or ten traffic tickets, you are out of here.  Turn in your Permis de Conduire  Go directly to Istanbul.  Do not pass Go.  Do not collect 400,000,000 TL.

 

Lunch

Erol suggested a hotel restaurant for lunch.  Phyl and I were ready to sit awhile and let our minds and legs catch up.  It had been a full morning.

 

Kariye Museum (The Church of St. Saviour in Chora Monastery)

This small 5th century church is nearly full of mosaics and frescoes.  The quality and extensiveness of this art work is fantastic and overwhelming.  I say, “nearly full...”  Unfortunately modern day crusaders, tourists, have picked off just a few of the pixels.  All that can be reached without a ladder are gone.  It must be better to have them secure in Kronenberg, Kansas or Kent than that Asian country.  And anyway, who will miss just one chip of porcelain?

 

Another drive through the city.  Good thing it is Coşkuner is driving and not me.  I still have a valid French Permis de Conduire.

 

Mosque of Sultan Suleyman

This mosque has it all: tremendous size, awe inspiring grandeur, delicate richness, commanding location.  It was built in the mid 16th century, about 50 years before Sultan Ahmed Mosque.

Beautiful

 

Another drive through the city.  Good thing it is Coskuner driving and not me.  I still have a valid French Permis de Conduire, although I’m thinking of turning it in for fear I might do something wrong and get sent to Istanbul to drive.

 

Mr. Professor, can we stop now?  My brain is full.

This was just the first day.

Keep a Tight Luff,
Fred

PS There’s a good web page at   http://www.sanalistanbul.com/index.htm  for pictures and details on Istanbul.  Check out the museum page first.  Then you can book a hotel and a tour.

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