From: Fred &Phyllis Denton <denton@flash.net>

To: Crews List <denton@flash.net

Date: Thursday, February 07, 2002 1:38 PM

Subject: Crew's Letter #01 2002 Still in Texas and Getting Weary for theBoat

Good Morning Ladies and  Gentlemen:

We hope this finds you and your family in good health and great spirits.

We are back in Texas for Thanksgiving, Christmas, skiing and taxes.

In January, we went cruising with friends, Guadeloupe to Martinique. Thefirst half of a trip report follows.

We have decided to use the 2002 season to cruise Turkey and Greece. The western Med and transatlantic will have to wait.

2002 Season.

April - Corfu --> Peloponnisos --> Crete

May - Crete --> Rhodes

**************** May 15 to June 10 is booked

June - Rhodes --> TurkeyJuly - August - Turkey

September - October - Istanbul --> Corfu

********************* Guadeloupe to Martinique -- A Trip Report *****************

The target sailing area for Perception was the Caribbean even before she had been selected or given a name. The Bahamas were in there too, until theselection process got us a deep keel and "Bahamas" means shallow water.  TheMediterranean was a fall out of the process as well. When we were still looking at used boats, Jeanneau Trinidad was at the top of the list. All but one of these on the block were in the Med. Most were in Greece.

So the plan was born: sail the Med the first year and then take her to theCaribbean. In the 2001 season, many of the English yachtsmen told us haunting tales of the Caribbean. These tales are mostly about the attitudeand actions of the local people. They bode on theft, maiming, death and local officials who either look the other way or shift the responsibilityonto the yachtsmen who come here and cause the problems. The under currents are racism and disparity of wealth.

Maybe it would be best if we went there to learn for ourselves before we make the transatlantic passage.

The Dallas Power Squadron, aka Dallas Power and Sail, publishes The WatchBelow. Last spring there was an article in it about Communication Aboard the "Gypsy Queen". It was written by Gary Montgomery. Gary and his wifeKathy are cruising the Caribbean much like we hope to. The article was just what we thought we needed to know. We wrote via email for someclarification. After that we exchanged some emails and they were added  to the Crew's Letter distribution.

In October, we broke with conventional wisdom and normal courtesy. We asked to be invited to come sailing in the Caribbean on the Montgomery's boat.They tossed caution to the wind and invited us. So it goes with what your mother told you about email organized rendezvous. We caught up with them in Point a Pitre, Guadeloupe and the cruise was perfect. Our objectives were to test the Caribbean waters, learn the methods of people who had a coupleof years experience as liveaboards and have fun. They were looking at the issue of compatibility and the possibility of cruising with us in the Med.

The connect point was at the Bas de Fort Marina on Guadeloupe. We found the boat without a hitch and Montgomerys came along about an hour later. They had been to the airport to send off their previous crew member. We had probably crossed paths, but without the benefit of knowing each other, recognition was unlikely.

Their boat is an Island Packet 38 named Gypsy Queen. She's named for theco-owner and co-captain, Kathy. Island Packet is one of the premier US built cruising boats. She sports a cutter rig, aft cockpit, shoal draft and very stable sailing style. The cabin is spacious with master quarters forward,large working galley aft starboard and guest cabin aft port. The salon table folds up leaving a large and open salon for non-meal time. Two toys caught our attention: single side band radio and the water maker installation.

THIS IS FRANCE!

The shopping trip the first evening was to a Champion supermarket. Ou rfirst market in Paris was a Champion supermarket at Pont d'Sevres in Boulogne. It was the same market.

The next day we were unable to fill the diesel tank at the fuel dock.  Therewas a greve (strike) at the electric company. This is France! The captain was satisfied that we had enough fuel and off we went on a beam reach forLes Saintes. Clear skies, steady wind and not much swell make for a perfect sail. The anchorage at Bourg des Saintes was not crowded, but there were as many boats as there were places to anchor in 20 feet or less of water.We found one that had been missed and on the second try, set the hook. The town was a typical seacoast tourist town. The restaurant was French: good menu, excellent preparation and presentation. This could be Avenue Victor Hugo in Paris. No, it is Bourg des Saintes, Guadeloupe.

The night was not so kind. A more than noticeable swell wrapped around the island and rolled Gypsy Queen from side to side most of the night. Some of the crew found it difficult to stay in their bunk. The next morning, it was not difficult to get up and under sail. We all looked forward to a rest once the stability of sails was in place and we were under way. Next target, Dominica.

Dominica is not France.  Again the wind was 15 to 25 knots. We were sailing a fine reach and heading straight for Prince Rupert Bay. The only wrinkle was what Kathy calls theCaribbean two-step. The sea swell was between 5 and 7 feet and where the wind was just forward of the beam and had a small swell of its own, the sea swell was just abaft the beam. This meant that when sails, wind and boat found a rhythm, the sea swell did what it could to upset the balance. As Kathy had named it she also demonstrated the helmsmanship to get past it.  We had an easy passage.

The anchorage at Prince Rupert Bay was nearly empty as we approached.  By the time we were nearing a position to drop the hook, there was a trafficjam. Local men and boys arrived by colorful wooden boats powered byoutboard and surfboards powered by hand, double ended kayak paddles, canoepaddles or just a piece of lumber. The most spectacular was a man standingon a surfboard propelling it with an oar. All were there to welcome us toDominica and sell us just about anything that we could want. Water taxi, garbage collection, fresh produce, a tour of the Indian River, groceries, a tour of the island, you name it, they would get it. After many stern, firm,but polite "NO", "Please stay out of the way." "Please, don't get on theboat." "No, we don't need *****." They finally cleared out. Actually, it was probably the arrival of another yacht that spared us this barrage of helpfulness.

The captains went ashore to clear customs and the crew relaxed with a swim and a shower.

<<To Be Continued >>

Keep a Tight Luff,

Phyl and Fred

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