From: Fred &Phyllis Denton <denton@flash.net>
To: Crews List <denton@flash.net
Date: Thursday,
February 07, 2002 1:38 PM
Subject: Crew's Letter #01 2002 Still in Texas
and Getting Weary for theBoat
Good Morning Ladies and Gentlemen:
We hope this finds you and your family in good health and
great spirits.
We are back in Texas
for Thanksgiving, Christmas, skiing and taxes.
In January, we went cruising with friends, Guadeloupe
to Martinique. Thefirst half of a trip report follows.
We have decided to use the 2002 season to cruise Turkey
and Greece. The
western Med and transatlantic will have to wait.
2002 Season.
April - Corfu --> Peloponnisos --> Crete
May - Crete --> Rhodes
**************** May 15 to June 10 is booked
June - Rhodes --> TurkeyJuly - August - Turkey
September - October - Istanbul
--> Corfu
********************* Guadeloupe to Martinique
-- A Trip Report *****************
The target sailing area for Perception was the Caribbean
even before she had been selected or given a name. The Bahamas
were in there too, until theselection process got us a deep keel and "Bahamas"
means shallow water. TheMediterranean
was a fall out of the process as well. When we were still looking at used
boats, Jeanneau Trinidad was at the top of the list. All but one of these on
the block were in the Med. Most were in Greece.
So the plan was born: sail the Med the first year and then
take her to theCaribbean. In the 2001 season, many of the English yachtsmen
told us haunting tales of the Caribbean. These tales are mostly about the
attitudeand actions of the local people. They bode on theft, maiming, death and
local officials who either look the other way or shift the responsibilityonto
the yachtsmen who come here and cause the problems. The under currents are
racism and disparity of wealth.
Maybe it would be best if we went there to learn for
ourselves before we make the transatlantic passage.
The Dallas Power Squadron, aka Dallas Power and Sail,
publishes The WatchBelow. Last spring there was an article in it about
Communication Aboard the "Gypsy Queen". It was written by Gary
Montgomery. Gary and his wifeKathy are cruising the Caribbean much like we hope
to. The article was just what we thought we needed to know. We wrote via email
for someclarification. After that we exchanged some emails and they were
added to the Crew's Letter distribution.
In October, we broke with conventional wisdom and normal
courtesy. We asked to be invited to come sailing in the Caribbean on the
Montgomery's boat.They tossed caution to the wind and invited us. So it goes
with what your mother told you about email organized rendezvous. We caught up
with them in Point a Pitre, Guadeloupe and the cruise
was perfect. Our objectives were to test the Caribbean
waters, learn the methods of people who had a coupleof years experience as
liveaboards and have fun. They were looking at the issue of compatibility and
the possibility of cruising with us in the Med.
The connect point was at the Bas de Fort Marina
on Guadeloupe. We found the boat without a hitch and Montgomerys
came along about an hour later. They had been to the airport to send off their
previous crew member. We had probably crossed paths, but without the benefit of
knowing each other, recognition was unlikely.
Their boat is an Island Packet 38 named Gypsy Queen. She's
named for theco-owner and co-captain, Kathy. Island Packet is one of the
premier US built cruising boats. She sports a cutter rig, aft cockpit, shoal
draft and very stable sailing style. The cabin is spacious with master quarters
forward,large working galley aft starboard and guest cabin aft port. The salon
table folds up leaving a large and open salon for non-meal time. Two toys
caught our attention: single side band radio and the water maker installation.
THIS IS FRANCE!
The shopping trip the first evening was to a Champion
supermarket. Ou rfirst market in Paris
was a Champion supermarket at Pont d'Sevres in Boulogne.
It was the same market.
The next day we were unable to fill the diesel tank at the
fuel dock. Therewas a greve (strike) at
the electric company. This is France!
The captain was satisfied that we had enough fuel and off we went on a beam
reach forLes Saintes. Clear skies, steady wind and not much swell make for a
perfect sail. The anchorage at Bourg des Saintes was not crowded, but there
were as many boats as there were places to anchor in 20 feet or less of
water.We found one that had been missed and on the second try, set the hook.
The town was a typical seacoast tourist town. The restaurant was French: good
menu, excellent preparation and presentation. This could be Avenue Victor Hugo
in Paris. No, it is Bourg des
Saintes, Guadeloupe.
The night was not so kind. A more than noticeable swell
wrapped around the island and rolled Gypsy Queen from side to side most of the
night. Some of the crew found it difficult to stay in their bunk. The next
morning, it was not difficult to get up and under sail. We all looked forward
to a rest once the stability of sails was in place and we were under way. Next
target, Dominica.
Dominica
is not France. Again the wind was 15 to 25 knots. We were
sailing a fine reach and heading straight for Prince
Rupert Bay. The
only wrinkle was what Kathy calls theCaribbean two-step. The sea swell was
between 5 and 7 feet and where the wind was just forward of the beam and had a
small swell of its own, the sea swell was just abaft the beam. This meant that
when sails, wind and boat found a rhythm, the sea swell did what it could to
upset the balance. As Kathy had named it she also demonstrated the helmsmanship
to get past it. We had an easy passage.
The anchorage at Prince Rupert
Bay was nearly empty as we
approached. By the time we were nearing
a position to drop the hook, there was a trafficjam. Local men and boys arrived
by colorful wooden boats powered byoutboard and surfboards powered by hand,
double ended kayak paddles, canoepaddles or just a piece of lumber. The most
spectacular was a man standingon a surfboard propelling it with an oar. All
were there to welcome us toDominica and sell us just about anything that we
could want. Water taxi, garbage collection, fresh produce, a tour of the Indian
River, groceries, a tour of the island, you name it, they would
get it. After many stern, firm,but polite "NO", "Please stay out
of the way." "Please, don't get on theboat." "No, we don't
need *****." They finally cleared out. Actually, it was probably the
arrival of another yacht that spared us this barrage of helpfulness.
The captains went ashore to clear customs and the crew
relaxed with a swim and a shower.
<<To Be Continued >>
Keep a Tight Luff,
Phyl and Fred
<<Previous ^Crews
Page^ Next>>