From: Phyl & Fred Denton <denton@flash.net>

To: Crews List*

Date: Saturday, 13 October, 2001 15:12

Subject: Chapter 2   ***   As Promised

 

As it was getting late when we passed through the swing bridge of the Levkas Canal, we began to contemplate a safe harbor for the evening.

The next island in the chain going north was Paxos, where we had anchored the first night out from Corfu, and being that it was another 28 miles, we chose to find shelter for the evening on the mainland of Greece.

The harbor at Preveza looked like a good prospect, and was within reasonable distance to reach before nightfall.  The guide book mentioned that the city "grows on you", and we were yet to find out the true meaning of the innuendo in this message.

 

The entrance to the channel into the harbor was shallow and surrounded by underwater rocks, with a danger bearing indicated on the chart to keep you out of harms way.  As we were looking for the buoys that mark the entrance to the channel, we suddenly saw an AWACS jet take off right over our mast from the small airport on the south side of the harbor.  Right behind the AWACS was a NATO jumbo jet, and I think this was the first time it really sank in on me that war was imminent.

 

Negotiating our way through the narrow channel and dodging the ferry boats plying back and forth between the north harbor and the south harbor, we came into a crowded, bustling marina with little space save that reserved for the charter fleets that tie up there overnight.  This left us no choice but to head for the tourist docks at the center of town, though they seemed to be near many interesting tavernas and the center of town just three blocks over.  We tied Perception up along side the quay, rested a bit, and then headed into town for some sightseeing, provisions, and dinner.  The local newsstand selling English newspapers was very helpful, providing a young guide to take us to her favorite "fish restaurant".  She seemed more than happy for the opportunity to escort us a few short blocks to the restaurant as she was taking English classes at night and was glad to have the opportunity to practice her English.

 

The small family restaurant was not yet open for customers as most Greek restaurants do not open for dinner until about 8:30, and so we set off to get some provisions at a local super market and do a bit of sight seeing.  We quickly stowed the provisions, having to put some of them in "C.A.'s" bunk, as it will be forever known now, since C.A and Maureen Miller were regretfully unable to join us due to the dastardly deeds in New York.  Returning to the restaurant, we dined sufficiently on the local white fish in the area, the name of which I cannot remember.  Though bony, it was very tasty, and the spinach pie starters were quite good.  We dined family style as usual, with everyone ordering a small portion of something different so we could share all of the delicacies, like mussels, fried cheese (saganaki), shrimp saganaki, fried aubergine (eggplant), calamari, etc. etc.

 

We returned to Perception late about 10:30, and quickly noticed why not many folks tie up along the city tourist docks, as the pervasive odor of Preveza was profusely oozing out of the sewer drain immediately adjacent to Perception's stern.  We then realized the innuendo in the guide book's message that the city "grows" on you, and we wanted to add, especially if you don't take a bath every 30 minutes there.  Finally, I noticed the captain pouring furiously over the charts, and when he could stand no more of the stench and the noise, suddenly asked the crew if we would like to move somewhere to an anchorage he found on the chart that was nearby.  Though I thought he had surely lost his mind at this point as it was after 11 pm and the Greek waters and harbors are not abundantly marked with night time aids to navigation, he got little resistance from the crew who were ready to go anywhere, even at great peril, to be rid of the foul smelling neighborhood.

 

We quickly cut loose the lines and headed out toward the first red aton, expecting only to find one more, but as luck would have it, new ones had been added since our chart edition, making it fairly easy to guide us to the anchorage. The buoyage system in Europe is just the reverse of the Lateral Buoyage system in the U.S., and the way we remembered it was "red right reaving".  The anchorage was very near the shoreline, and remained fairly deep but came up quickly near the shore.  There was only one other neighbor at anchor that we could see, but the anchor seemed to hold, and it looked as if we could swing easily out of harms way.  At least we were all relieved to be out of the stench at Preveza, and wondered where the nearest boat wash was where we could take Perception the next day.  The next morning, first mate Phyllis arose and mused, "hum, that telephone pole wasn't there last night, was it? "  Upon closer inspection, we found the telephone pole to be the mast of a sunken sail boat at the end of the small pier near the shore!  Poseidon had smiled upon us once more, looking out for forlorn sailors seeking refuge under the cover of dark of night!

 

Undaunted, we set out after breakfast for the 28 mile trek back to Paxos, deciding this time to try the northern most harbor at Laakas.  The weather remained beautiful, with fairly good winds, and so we reached Paxos by early afternoon, steering clear of the rocky reef just off the main harbor.  Laakas proved to be one of the most beautiful anchorages we encountered.  Shallow, clear waters revealed a turquoise bottom that would have been great for snorkeling had the water temperature not been 25-26 degrees Centigrade!  None the less, the Captain opted for a short swim while Phyllis and I watched the German boat of guys just ahead of us who seemed to have all lost their bathing suits!  One of them also treated the whole anchorage to a trumpet rendition of a German beer song or two, and received a standing ovation for his efforts.  After our daily ration of grog, the Captain could quit flogging us as our morale had finally improved.  (Aboard Perception, daily floggings by the Captain continue until morale has improved).

 

Once again, Perception's Reality ferried us safely to town to browse the shops and find another great repast.  To our surprise, we encountered Malcolm and Lolly there, the English couple on the power boat who had offered us their television in Corfu to watch the devastation in New York.  It was like seeing old friends, though we barely knew them. 

We found a lovely patio restaurant that served up great gyros, surrounded by large pots of hibiscus and humming birds.  The local cats begged for table scraps and one young orange one amused us as he kept an avid watch on the humming bird.  We had all just chided him with, "in your dreams", when suddenly, he pounced, and the hummingbird was his!  At least for a few seconds, until he mistakenly opened his mouth again and the bird was quick on the take to fly away.  I am sure there is some moral to this story, like learn to keep your mouth shut!

After dinner, Malcolm and Lolly who had managed to find a spot to moor along the quay invited us aboard for a night cap with a glass of Bailey's and some good company.  Lolly came up with one of those monikers that just seems to stick.  The Captain was chided most of the way by fellow loads of all male crews for traveling with two women.  Lolly, whose ex husband was also named Fred, said someone had said of her ex at his second wedding which she attended,  "Yes, Fred always travels with a pair and a spare."

Thus "Captain Fred" was henceforward to be stuck with the same reputation.   It was good to see them, and all too soon we had to find the dinghy to go back. 

 

The last day of the "Odyssey" at sea before returning to base at Gouvia Marina on Corfu was rather warm with moderate winds.  We traversed back up Corfu Channel at a leisurely pace, seeing a few wild life birds like Pelicans, which unfortunately were few in numbers in the region.  Also, much to the chagrin of our Captain, we saw no sirens beckoning unwary sailors to an untimely end, as so we were spared having to lash him to the mast.  I had just opted to go forward for a nap and a little sun bathing when the winds began to pick up, and I had to go back to the cockpit or face rolling off the bow. 

 

We changed course in a westerly direction, on a straight line for Gouvia Marina, and hardened up the sails for the stiff breeze.  After about an hour, the choppy seas subsided, as did the winds, and we took down sails as we neared the marina, all too soon, signaling the final chapter of Perception's Odyssey.   Negotiating our way through the ferries coming southbound from the North Channel, and the eastbound/westbound ferries that ply between Corfu and Igoumenitsa, we spotted the buoys marking the entrance to the channel at Gouvia, and were soon greeted by the harbor master in his inflatable  who guided us to a suitable slip and helped us tie up.  Then it was time to wash a little salt off the boat, and flush out the tanks, before jaunting off to dinner ashore at a small British style pub in Gouvia.

 

All too soon the next day it was time to confirm flights and schedule home, and miraculously, they were all on schedule in light of the events some 10 days earlier.  I couldn't decide if I was glad or not that planes were flying again!  Having a day to spare before having to leave Peception and good friends, we rented a car for the day and drove up and over the mountains on the North end of Corfu.  Our first stop was Paliokastritsas, a beautiful seaside beacon the northwest side of Corfu with rocky crags, (aptly named Palio), and scores of caves filled with iridescent blue holes, 75 meters deep, and phosphorescent formations just below the water's surface.  After a great lemonade and ice cream lunch, we hired one of the many small skiffs that take tourists into the caves, and got some breathtaking pictures.  After a brief tour of the water front beach tourists shops, we headed further north, winding once again up mountain roads that took us buy scores of olive groves, small villages, and beautiful vistas of the sea below.  Coming down the mountain, we once again found ourselves seaside, with a quick tour of the main drags of the small villages on the northern most end.  As the road turned south down the eastern side, we began to climb again, with beautiful vistas below of the coastline we had seen on our first day out of Corfu, and soon we found the NARROW, STEEP ROAD  that led down to our favorite restaurant "Toulas".  This time, however, we were still full from the ice cream and lemonade.  We opted just to be satisfied with the fact that we could find Toulas by road as well as yacht headed back to Corfu for an early dinner and even earlier bed time, anticipating the 4:00 am wake up call to make my 7:00 a.m. flight. 

 

As the plane was leaving, I once again mused that it had been the "trip of a life time", as each time I visit Greece I am more awed by its beauty than the last.  I couldn't help but be jealous of the "Odysseys" to come that Perception and subsequent crews would experience, and I am eternally grateful to the Captain and first mate for the lasting memories and friendships.

 

Ya'll come see them, you hear?

 

Madame Capitan

 

 

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