From: Phyl &
To: Crews List*
Date:
Subject:
Chapter 2 *** As Promised
As it was getting late when we passed through the swing
bridge of the
The next island in the chain going north was Paxos, where we had anchored the first night out from Corfu, and being that it was another 28 miles, we chose to find shelter for the evening on the mainland of Greece.
The harbor at Preveza looked like a good prospect, and was within reasonable distance to reach before nightfall. The guide book mentioned that the city "grows on you", and we were yet to find out the true meaning of the innuendo in this message.
The entrance to the channel into the harbor was shallow and surrounded by underwater rocks, with a danger bearing indicated on the chart to keep you out of harms way. As we were looking for the buoys that mark the entrance to the channel, we suddenly saw an AWACS jet take off right over our mast from the small airport on the south side of the harbor. Right behind the AWACS was a NATO jumbo jet, and I think this was the first time it really sank in on me that war was imminent.
Negotiating our way through the narrow channel and dodging the ferry boats plying back and forth between the north harbor and the south harbor, we came into a crowded, bustling marina with little space save that reserved for the charter fleets that tie up there overnight. This left us no choice but to head for the tourist docks at the center of town, though they seemed to be near many interesting tavernas and the center of town just three blocks over. We tied Perception up along side the quay, rested a bit, and then headed into town for some sightseeing, provisions, and dinner. The local newsstand selling English newspapers was very helpful, providing a young guide to take us to her favorite "fish restaurant". She seemed more than happy for the opportunity to escort us a few short blocks to the restaurant as she was taking English classes at night and was glad to have the opportunity to practice her English.
The small family restaurant was not yet open for customers
as most Greek restaurants do not open for dinner until about
We returned to Perception late about
We quickly cut loose the lines and headed out toward the
first red aton, expecting only
to find one more, but as luck would have it, new ones had been added since our
chart edition, making it fairly easy to guide us to the anchorage. The buoyage system in
Undaunted, we set out after breakfast for the 28 mile trek back to Paxos, deciding this time to try the northern most harbor at Laakas. The weather remained beautiful, with fairly good winds, and so we reached Paxos by early afternoon, steering clear of the rocky reef just off the main harbor. Laakas proved to be one of the most beautiful anchorages we encountered. Shallow, clear waters revealed a turquoise bottom that would have been great for snorkeling had the water temperature not been 25-26 degrees Centigrade! None the less, the Captain opted for a short swim while Phyllis and I watched the German boat of guys just ahead of us who seemed to have all lost their bathing suits! One of them also treated the whole anchorage to a trumpet rendition of a German beer song or two, and received a standing ovation for his efforts. After our daily ration of grog, the Captain could quit flogging us as our morale had finally improved. (Aboard Perception, daily floggings by the Captain continue until morale has improved).
Once again, Perception's Reality ferried us safely to town
to browse the shops and find another great repast. To our surprise, we encountered Malcolm and
Lolly there, the English couple on the power boat who had offered us their
television in
We found a lovely patio restaurant that served up great gyros, surrounded by large pots of hibiscus and humming birds. The local cats begged for table scraps and one young orange one amused us as he kept an avid watch on the humming bird. We had all just chided him with, "in your dreams", when suddenly, he pounced, and the hummingbird was his! At least for a few seconds, until he mistakenly opened his mouth again and the bird was quick on the take to fly away. I am sure there is some moral to this story, like learn to keep your mouth shut!
After dinner, Malcolm and Lolly who had managed to find a spot to moor along the quay invited us aboard for a night cap with a glass of Bailey's and some good company. Lolly came up with one of those monikers that just seems to stick. The Captain was chided most of the way by fellow loads of all male crews for traveling with two women. Lolly, whose ex husband was also named Fred, said someone had said of her ex at his second wedding which she attended, "Yes, Fred always travels with a pair and a spare."
Thus "Captain Fred" was henceforward to be stuck with the same reputation. It was good to see them, and all too soon we had to find the dinghy to go back.
The last day of the "Odyssey" at sea before
returning to base at Gouvia Marina on
We changed course in a westerly direction, on a straight
line for Gouvia Marina, and hardened up the sails for the stiff breeze. After about an hour, the choppy seas
subsided, as did the winds, and we took down sails as we neared the marina, all
too soon, signaling the final chapter of Perception's Odyssey. Negotiating our way through the ferries
coming southbound from the
All too soon the next day it was time to confirm flights and
schedule home, and miraculously, they were all on schedule in light of the
events some 10 days earlier. I couldn't
decide if I was glad or not that planes were flying again! Having a day to spare before having to leave Peception and good friends, we rented a car for the day and
drove up and over the mountains on the North end of
As the plane was leaving, I once again mused that it had
been the "trip of a life time", as each time I visit
Ya'll come see them, you hear?
Madame Capitan
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